Saturday, April 14, 2007

Kruger National Park

As pretty as the landscape was in Mpumalanga, the main reason that the province is a must for just about everyone who visits South Africa is that it boasts perhaps the best wildlife refuge in the world: Kruger National Park. Established in 1898 by Paul Kruger (the quintessential Boer leader) the park stretches an impressive 381 km from the Crocodile River in the south northward to the Limpopo River. Sixteen different eco-zones are represented. In 2002 the fences separating Kruger from the contiguous Gonarezhou National Park (Zimbabwe) and the Gaza Reserve (Mozambique) were taken down to create the Great Limpopo Transfrontier Park that now covers a mind boggling 92.5 million acres!

Pictured below is one of the more famous views within Kruger, witnessed from the balcony at the Olifants (elephants) Rest Camp. It's a great spot for viewing crocodiles, hippos, grazing animals and, if your timing is really great, the occasional lion kill.
One of the features that makes Kruger an especially exciting place to visit is the series of paved and graded secondary roads leading to high quality facilities that make it perfect for self-drive tours. The different destinations are well-posted. Apart from a few rest stops that are strategically located between the rest camps, there are no places to stop. You are not allowed out of the car except in the middle of some of the longer bridges (at your own risk); in fact, people have been fined just for leaning out a window or sunroof, which is also forbidden. Being more or less alone to take on the wilds of Africa was a highly exhilarating experience!
Those of us who grew up in the 1960s will remember Mutual of Omaha's Wild Kingdom. Every Sunday afternoon it brought timeless stories about African wildlife, principally from Kruger National Park, into our living rooms. I recall being fascinated by the scenery and wildlife of a far away land. In many ways it served as a comprehensive introduction to exotic flora, fauna and ecology. Images of thousands of wildebeest simultaneously thundering across the savanna to elude lions really stuck in my mind. Although herds this size are more typical of eastern Africa, we certainly saw a lot of this powerful beast.
Exposure to game such as antelope, zebra and giraffe began within minutes of driving through the camp gate. Following check-in and some lunch at Berg-en-dal Rest Camp we set off on a late afternoon drive. It wasn't very long before we meandered by what we initially thought to be the alternate black and white pattern of a zebra. Upon further inspection we realized that it was the carcass of a half-eaten elephant. Most of the rump and sides were gone but the head was entirely intact as well as parts of the upper torso. Lions were in the long grass nearby, out of sight.
One of the hard and fast rules at Kruger is that you must be in your rest camp between dawn and dusk. Heavy fines are applied to those who fail to comply. Reluctantly, we had to head for home before supper time arrived in the jungle. Up early the next morning, we headed directly back to the site. By 6:15 A.M., however, the feast was pretty much over. The last spotted hyena had waited its turn but now abandoned the kill, stopping for a few moments on the road to observe the tourists. For the next twenty minutes we watched as a squadron of vultures took turns finishing up the remains. There wasn't much left except the bones; no doubt that by now they are pretty much gone as well! We really weren't sure how much wildlife we could expect to see at Kruger, but it fulfilled our wildest dreams. We took so many great photos that it's hard to know which ones to share. I guess I'll try to provide a sample of the amazing variety we encountered, both big and small.

Being restrained by the electronic fences at the rest camps not only provides safety to tourists but also protects the wildlife. We thought it was quite amazing that after four days of driving we did not see a single victim of roadkill. The speed limit of 40 k.p.h. helps to protect those who need to find their way across, such as the ever-so-slow chameleon that we saw on a number of occasions.
On the other hand, the dung beetle really is an amazingly energetic creature. Its preoccupation is with rolling animal waste (mostly from the elephant) into neat little balls which it nimbly (and no doubt proudly) brings to the supper table. Nancy and I were both impressed at how fast the beetles flew across the road!
The bird life at Kruger is absolutely extraordinary, easily worth the price of admission on its own. There are some 500 species of our feathery friends in the park. One of the most beautiful is the ubiquitous lilac-breasted roller. As part of its mating ritual the males soars high into the air, somersaults around a few times, then drops like a stone as it comes roaring back to the earth. What girl wouldn't fall for that? Although we didn't see this aerial spectacle, I can tell you that the full blue of the entire back and wing feathers are a sight to behold when the roller takes flight!

Another very common species was the Southern Carmine Bee-Eater. One can't help but be impressed with its exceptional reflexes as it snacks bees right out of mid-air!
The trouble maker of the bunch seemed to be the Southern Yellow Hornbill. It always had a lot to say, pestered smaller animals like the mongoose, and relentlessly divested insects from their homes. In a children's book in a gift shop we were amused but not surprised to see that it was cast in the role of the villain. During mating season the male digs a hole for its mate, plasters her into it with mud and sticks, then brings food during the weeks required for the eggs to be incubated and hatched. During this time the female loses her feathers, which are quickly regrown when she is released from her lonely vigil.
One of our most awesome wildlife observations was watching an unspecified species of eagle (all we saw was the silhouette) as it slowly dissected and wolfed down a large snake that it had just airlifted from the dusty soil. By the time this picture was taken, a good 15-20 cm of snake had already disappeared "down the hatch". There were quite a few aquatic species to be seen where ever water was able to accumulate. A particularly lovely marsh bird was the saddle-back stork.
We had some unforgettable moments with some of the large mammals in the park. We saw a lot of elephants but this one was about as close as you can get to the animal without being stepped on. Although they are generally mild-mannered beasts, elephants can go on a rant as well as anyone. At one rest site there was a picture of an overturned, the result of getting too close and being charged. We really weren't being irresponsible to get ourselves into this predicament. The creature appeared suddenly was so close to the road it was hard to avoid. It started flapping its huge ears at us. This means one of two things: the flies are bothering me or get out of my face before I hurt you!
Normally, rhinos are spotted grazing lazily amongst the underbrush. They're more active at night but are generally taking their time then too. It was nice to see them in motion, straight ahead, as we drove drove down a quiet side road. We soon became aware that they were running, not walking. To our amazement they came rumbling right up to the car (within five meters!) before exiting into the field shown here. As most people know, a rhino can generate quite a head of steam. As if playing, they cantered around the field in a figure eight pattern before heading straight at us again. This time they got so close that we dropped the camera (we attempting a video) and rolled up the window (not that this would do much good) before they veered off and darted into the bush!
Kruger is know for its large cats and although we didn't see any lions or cheetahs, we saw a couple of leopards. It's mostly a matter of luck. The first few days we did everything right, starting early, being quiet, and driving slowly (inspecting, at times, every limb). By the last full day we had been shut out except for one leopard that a flock of people told us was resting under a large bridge we traversed. By this time I had contracted tick fever (common in these parts).
Not feeling well at all caused us to start late and drive quickly, not really even observing very carefully as we hurried to get to a doctor.

Not five minutes outside of Olifants (where leopards are not officially listed as present), out of the corner of my eye I saw this magnificent feline suddenly appeared out of the grass. Breaking to a halt, the cat walked slowly across the road right behind us then proceeded to lay down in the grass at a distance of about twenty metres to preen itself. We watched for a good ten minutes before it tired of all the other vehicles which began to arrive, an strode off into the higher grass. It was quite a thrill! As for the tick fever, for a few days I was pumping so many pills that one morning I woke up thinking I was Keith Richards, but thankfully, it lasted less than a week.

I could go on and on about all of the various kinds of antelope we saw as well as a host of other delightful animals but I should think this is enough for you to get a feel for the wonderful time that we had at Kruger. Those who are interested can see more when we get home. Amazingly enough, a few short years ago business conglomerate was nearly successful in buying Kruger to build resorts and even a golf course. Fortunately, a groundswell of public opposition put an end to that. Funding for conservation is a big issue in South Africa though as so much of the national income is being devoted to much-needed social programs.
Thanks for continuing to read the blog - the big gaps in publication are a reflection of our timetable and Internet availability rather than a commitment to the cause. Will be posting again very soon so stay tuned!










































































































Sunday, April 8, 2007

A Place Called Mpumalanga

Mpumalanga, the most north-eastern province in South Africa, means "the land of the rising sun" in the Zulu and Siswati languages. We arrived looking forward to some warmer and sunnier weather since we haven't seen much of either for a month. Early and mid summer were extra hot and dry in most of the country so I guess that it should be no surprise that the early fall has been wet and dreary. We're not complaining mind you because A) when we've really needed clear skies the most (in the mountains) we've been pretty lucky and B) we know that folks in Canada aren't going to be real sympathetic if we do!

What I can tell you unequivocally is that this is a spectacularly scenic part of the world. The countryside is very rocky and colourful with many kinds of flowering trees.
People seem to go out of their way to make the landscape lovely. Colourful shrubs line many of the fields, especially the sugar cane plantations.
Some of the local farmers certainly put a lot of time and expense into decorating even the simple things in their lives such as a grain silo.
The fields are lush and there are a variety of large and carefully manicured orchards such as this grove of papaya trees.
The avocados and mangoes sold here are enormous! After carrying very heavy bags of them with us for a number of days we have fully enjoyed the exquisite taste of produce that has been picked only when fully ripe!
Nelspruit, the capital city of the province, has incorporated the Zulu architectural style into the building of its handsome provincial legislature! There are lots of interesting African crafts available. Since we're starting to get nearer to the end of our trip we're starting to look at these more carefully.
The region has some gorgeous fauna has well as the flora.
We recently spent a day driving the Panorama Route which includes wide-sweeping valleys the grandeur of which is difficult to convey in a single frame. The Three Rondavels shown below is certainly one of the most interesting individual formations.
It's all part of the Blyde River Canyon. Blyde is Afrikaans for "happy". Centuries ago the wandering Boer farmers known as the Voortrekers arrived in the area. Some decided to push on to Mozambique. When they were weeks late in returning they were given up for dead. They were eventually able to catch up with their retreating party who were so happy to see them that they named the canyon to commemorate the moment in time.
The most unique and perhaps impressive spot along the route is at Bourke's Luck Potholes, a conglomeration of swirled out pockets in the rock caused by pebbles that once flowed with the force of the water. We loved the spot and have too many pictures that we'd like to share so will have to be content with posting just a few!





Thanks to everyone who has provided us with some feedback about the blog. It's worth the effort that it takes when people are enjoying it and learning about South Africa even if it's only through our eyes!