Kruger National Park

As pretty as the landscape was in Mpumalanga, the main reason that the province is a must for just about everyone who visits South Africa is that it boasts perhaps the best wildlife refuge in the world: Kruger National Park. Established in 1898 by Paul Kruger (the quintessential Boer leader) the park stretches an impressive 381 km from the Crocodile River in the south northward to the Limpopo River. Sixteen different eco-zones are represented. In 2002 the fences separating Kruger from the contiguous Gonarezhou National Park (Zimbabwe) and the Gaza Reserve (Mozambique) were taken down to create the Great Limpopo Transfrontier Park that now covers a mind boggling 92.5 million acres!

Pictured below is one of the more famous views within Kruger, witnessed from the balcony at the Olifants (elephants) Rest Camp. It's a great spot for viewing crocodiles, hippos, grazing animals and, if your timing is really great, the occasional lion kill.

One of the features that makes Kruger an especially exciting place to visit is the series of paved and graded secondary roads leading to high quality facilities that make it perfect for self-drive tours. The different destinations are well-posted. Apart from a few rest stops that are strategically located between the rest camps, there are no places to stop. You are not allowed out of the car except in the middle of some of the longer bridges (at your own risk); in fact, people have been fined just for leaning out a window or sunroof, which is also forbidden. Being more or less alone to take on the wilds of Africa was a highly exhilarating experience!

Those of us who grew up in the 1960s will remember Mutual of Omaha's Wild Kingdom. Every Sunday afternoon it brought timeless stories about African wildlife, principally from Kruger National Park, into our living rooms. I recall being fascinated by the scenery and wildlife of a far away land. In many ways it served as a comprehensive introduction to exotic flora, fauna and ecology. Images of thousands of wildebeest simultaneously thundering across the savanna to elude lions really stuck in my mind. Although herds this size are more typical of eastern Africa, we certainly saw a lot of this powerful beast.
Exposure to game such as antelope, zebra and giraffe began within minutes of driving through the camp gate. Following check-in and some lunch at Berg-en-dal Rest Camp we set off on a late afternoon drive. It wasn't very long before we meandered by what we initially thought to be the alternate black and white pattern of a zebra. Upon further inspection we realized that it was the carcass of a half-eaten elephant. Most of the rump and sides were gone but the head was entirely intact as well as parts of the upper torso. Lions were in the long grass nearby, out of sight.

One of the hard and fast rules at Kruger is that you must be in your rest camp between dawn and dusk. Heavy fines are applied to those who fail to comply. Reluctantly, we had to head for home before supper time arrived in the jungle. Up early the next morning, we headed directly back to the site. By 6:15 A.M., however, the feast was pretty much over. The last spotted hyena had waited its turn but now abandoned the kill, stopping for a few moments on the road to observe the tourists. For the next twenty minutes we watched as a squadron of vultures took turns finishing up the remains. There wasn't much left except the bones; no doubt that by now they are pretty much gone as well! We really weren't sure how much wildlife we could expect to see at Kruger, but it fulfilled our wildest dreams. We took so many great photos that it's hard to know which ones to share. I guess I'll try to provide a sample of the amazing variety we encountered, both big and small.

Being restrained by the electronic fences at the rest camps not only provides safety to tourists but also protects the wildlife. We thought it was quite amazing that after four days of driving we did not see a single victim of roadkill. The speed limit of 40 k.p.h. helps to protect those who need to find their way across, such as the ever-so-slow chameleon that we saw on a number of occasions.

On the other hand, the dung beetle really is an amazingly energetic creature. Its preoccupation is with rolling animal waste (mostly from the elephant) into neat little balls which it nimbly (and no doubt proudly) brings to the supper table. Nancy and I were both impressed at how fast the beetles flew across the road!

The bird life at Kruger is absolutely extraordinary, easily worth the price of admission on its own. There are some 500 species of our feathery friends in the park. One of the most beautiful is the ubiquitous lilac-breasted roller. As part of its mating ritual the males soars high into the air, somersaults around a few times, then drops like a stone as it comes roaring back to the earth. What girl wouldn't fall for that? Although we didn't see this aerial spectacle, I can tell you that the full blue of the entire back and wing feathers are a sight to behold when the roller takes flight!

Another very common species was the Southern Carmine Bee-Eater. One can't help but be impressed with its exceptional reflexes as it snacks bees right out of mid-air!
The trouble maker of the bunch seemed to be the Southern Yellow Hornbill. It always had a lot to say, pestered smaller animals like the mongoose, and relentlessly divested insects from their homes. In a children's book in a gift shop we were amused but not surprised to see that it was cast in the role of the villain. During mating season the male digs a hole for its mate, plasters her into it with mud and sticks, then brings food during the weeks required for the eggs to be incubated and hatched. During this time the female loses her feathers, which are quickly regrown when she is released from her lonely vigil.
One of our most awesome wildlife observations was watching an unspecified species of eagle (all we saw was the silhouette) as it slowly dissected and wolfed down a large snake that it had just airlifted from the dusty soil. By the time this picture was taken, a good 15-20 cm of snake had already disappeared "down the hatch". There were quite a few aquatic species to be seen where ever water was able to accumulate. A particularly lovely marsh bird was the saddle-back stork.

We had some unforgettable moments with some of the large mammals in the park. We saw a lot of elephants but this one was about as close as you can get to the animal without being stepped on. Although they are generally mild-mannered beasts, elephants can go on a rant as well as anyone. At one rest site there was a picture of an overturned, the result of getting too close and being charged. We really weren't being irresponsible to get ourselves into this predicament. The creature appeared suddenly was so close to the road it was hard to avoid. It started flapping its huge ears at us. This means one of two things: the flies are bothering me or get out of my face before I hurt you!
Normally, rhinos are spotted grazing lazily amongst the underbrush. They're more active at night but are generally taking their time then too. It was nice to see them in motion, straight ahead, as we drove drove down a quiet side road. We soon became aware that they were running, not walking. To our amazement they came rumbling right up to the car (within five meters!) before exiting into the field shown here. As most people know, a rhino can generate quite a head of steam. As if playing, they cantered around the field in a figure eight pattern before heading straight at us again. This time they got so close that we dropped the camera (we attempting a video) and rolled up the window (not that this would do much good) before they veered off and darted into the bush!
Kruger is know for its large cats and although we didn't see any lions or cheetahs, we saw a couple of leopards. It's mostly a matter of luck. The first few days we did everything right, starting early, being quiet, and driving slowly (inspecting, at times, every limb). By the last full day we had been shut out except for one leopard that a flock of people told us was resting under a large bridge we traversed. By this time I had contracted tick fever (common in these parts). Not feeling well at all caused us to start late and drive quickly, not really even observing very carefully as we hurried to get to a doctor.

Not five minutes outside of Olifants (where leopards are not officially listed as present), out of the corner of my eye I saw this magnificent feline suddenly appeared out of the grass. Breaking to a halt, the cat walked slowly across the road right behind us then proceeded to lay down in the grass at a distance of about twenty metres to preen itself. We watched for a good ten minutes before it tired of all the other vehicles which began to arrive, an strode off into the higher grass. It was quite a thrill! As for the tick fever, for a few days I was pumping so many pills that one morning I woke up thinking I was Keith Richards, but thankfully, it lasted less than a week.

I could go on and on about all of the various kinds of antelope we saw as well as a host of other delightful animals but I should think this is enough for you to get a feel for the wonderful time that we had at Kruger. Those who are interested can see more when we get home. Amazingly enough, a few short years ago business conglomerate was nearly successful in buying Kruger to build resorts and even a golf course. Fortunately, a groundswell of public opposition put an end to that. Funding for conservation is a big issue in South Africa though as so much of the national income is being devoted to much-needed social programs.

Thanks for continuing to read the blog - the big gaps in publication are a reflection of our timetable and Internet availability rather than a commitment to the cause. Will be posting again very soon so stay tuned!

A Place Called Mpumalanga

Mpumalanga, the most north-eastern province in South Africa, means "the land of the rising sun" in the Zulu and Siswati languages. We arrived looking forward to some warmer and sunnier weather since we haven't seen much of either for a month. Early and mid summer were extra hot and dry in most of the country so I guess that it should be no surprise that the early fall has been wet and dreary. We're not complaining mind you because A) when we've really needed clear skies the most (in the mountains) we've been pretty lucky and B) we know that folks in Canada aren't going to be real sympathetic if we do!

What I can tell you unequivocally is that this is a spectacularly scenic part of the world. The countryside is very rocky and colourful with many kinds of flowering trees.

People seem to go out of their way to make the landscape lovely. Colourful shrubs line many of the fields, especially the sugar cane plantations.

Some of the local farmers certainly put a lot of time and expense into decorating even the simple things in their lives such as a grain silo.

The fields are lush and there are a variety of large and carefully manicured orchards such as this grove of papaya trees.

The avocados and mangoes sold here are enormous! After carrying very heavy bags of them with us for a number of days we have fully enjoyed the exquisite taste of produce that has been picked only when fully ripe!
Nelspruit, the capital city of the province, has incorporated the Zulu architectural style into the building of its handsome provincial legislature! There are lots of interesting African crafts available. Since we're starting to get nearer to the end of our trip we're starting to look at these more carefully.
The region has some gorgeous fauna has well as the flora.
We recently spent a day driving the Panorama Route which includes wide-sweeping valleys the grandeur of which is difficult to convey in a single frame. The Three Rondavels shown below is certainly one of the most interesting individual formations.

It's all part of the Blyde River Canyon. Blyde is Afrikaans for "happy". Centuries ago the wandering Boer farmers known as the Voortrekers arrived in the area. Some decided to push on to Mozambique. When they were weeks late in returning they were given up for dead. They were eventually able to catch up with their retreating party who were so happy to see them that they named the canyon to commemorate the moment in time.
The most unique and perhaps impressive spot along the route is at Bourke's Luck Potholes, a conglomeration of swirled out pockets in the rock caused by pebbles that once flowed with the force of the water. We loved the spot and have too many pictures that we'd like to share so will have to be content with posting just a few!

Thanks to everyone who has provided us with some feedback about the blog. It's worth the effort that it takes when people are enjoying it and learning about South Africa even if it's only through our eyes!

Into the Zulu Heartland

We have all had educational experiences that were inspired by particular individuals, events, or resources. Other times our accumulated knowledge seems to have been assimilated by osmosis. So, without any real idea of how the idea was imprinted on my mind, I do vividly recall that from a relatively early age I appreciated that a Zulu warrior was a pretty fearsome thing. I know that I've seen images of Zulu men in impressive war costumes and postures. This made the prospect of exploring Zulu history and culture at its source in KwaZulu-Natal very exciting.

For a long time the Zulu were a rather insignificant tribe among the Nguni peoples who had migrated into southern Africa. Their rise can be attributed to a rather cunning and ruthless individual named Shaka, who is an icon in South African history. Shaka grew up as a rather isolated child who was ostracized by virtually all of his peers. While learning the means of contemporary warfare he observed that long shafted spears were of limited value since they were cumbersome at short range and not easily re-used. He devised something called an assegai which is a short spear that can be used in close encounters. The application of this new weapon in hand-to-hand combat would, of course, require a high degree of bravery - something that Shaka had developed though years of having to defend himself. Below is an artist's rendition of Shaka taken at a waterfront warehouse in Durban.
By the early nineteenth century the Zulus began to overwhelm their adversaries. Shaka took few prisoners - defeated opponents were either absorbed into his battalions or killed. It time he assembled a standing army of forty thousand fighters into a military state akin to the Greek city of Sparta. Those who displeased him were either thrown into a crocodile pit or off a cliff north of Durban that is still called Shaka's Rock. After his mother (Nandi) died Shaka executed hundreds of women and children who in any trivial way offended the memory of his mother. In time Shaka was murdered by his half-brother, Dingane, who more or less continued his policies. The Zulus were eventually defeated by the Boers and British but not before they had scored some convincing victories.

When we arrived at the entrance to a cultural village we were greeted by a fearsome warrior. His ability to remain in role was very impressive - no smiles (even though it may appear so in the photo), just lots of clicks of the tongue, forceful gestures, intimidation tactics, and impatience with our seemingly slow mastery of the basic Zulu words and greetings that he expected us to learn. Zulu rondavels are very sturdy and built in the shape of beehives. The entrance doors were intentionally kept low to force any visitor to bow while entering. Unlike the exposed kraals of the Xhosans, the Zulus had more highly organized villages that were surrounded by fences. Our tour of a traditional Zulu village included a number of interesting exhibitions of skill and ingenuity. The most impressive was the performance of a wedding ceremony that lasted just under half an hour! The Zulus' fascination with coloured beads dates to their earliest contact with European explorers. Their clothing and crafts use these to great effect. Hluhluwe (shla-shloo-wee)-Umfolzi National Park is one of South Africa's best game reserves. It was once kept as Shaka's exclusive hunting ground. The wildlife we saw during our day safari was a real thrill. Most numerous were the antelopes, of which South Africa has a wide variety. Each has different markings and a unique diet so that they're not all trying to eat the same plants! This is a female nyala, easily identified by its red coat and vertical white stripes. The kudu, though also vertically striped, is darker and larger. The male has a very impressive set of horns. The park is most famous for its population of white rhino, which have thankfully been rescued from the brink of extinction. The park also has black rhino which are not only more irritable and dangerous but less easily spotted since they're not at all sociable except during mating season. The white rhino, though more docile, is actually much larger, a massive animal! This fellow made quite an effort to uproot a fence (using it as a scratching post) that had been built to protect a plant research site. Although the African buffalo made appear fairly harmless, it is one of South Africa's "Big Five" animals that are categorized not on the basis of size but degree of danger. The bulls are especially aggressive when they get older and are forced away from the heard by the younger males. There were many elephant, giraffe and zebra in the park. Often you don't have to look very far - the animals appear on the road and are fully accustomed to seeing vehicles and don't perceive them as a threat, as long as nobody gets out! I've often thought how exciting it would be to run into a wild boar so warthogs were fun to observe and very prevalent. The males have much bigger warts and horns than the females. They use a variety of techniques for digging up roots, grubs and whatever else they might fancy to eat. Sometimes they collapse their front legs and drill through the soil like a plough! We haven't really said much about South African birds, but believe me, there are plenty and they are really quite amazing. We'll post some photos in a later blog. I have to mention though that there's apparently no greater love in the world than that of the yellow weaver. At the outset of the mating season, the male builds a nest for the female. She's rather fussy: too small, too big, too round, not round enough, etc. By the end of the process this must be one tired bird!While in the area we visited Cape Vidal which is part of the St. Lucia Wetlands, a World Heritage Site. It has fabulous beaches (though now damaged and littered by the recent storms) and one of the most highly regarded sport fisheries in South Africa. The recent high seas and flooding have provided a real bonanza for those who like to fish! Finally, we spent a very entertaining afternoon in the area on a river boat cruise along the St. Lucia estuary. The mangrove swamps are beautiful and play a vital role in marine ecology. There were some very large crocodiles! Didn't see any crocodile tears but I think that this is as close as it gets to a crocodile smile. It happened as Nancy was relating to another tourist the story about Stephen Harper shaking hands with his children in the school yard!Nancy was in her glory with all of the hippopotamus sightings. We had an extraordinary and lengthy visit with a colony of these amazing beasts which actually kill more people than any other animal in Africa! They're not too aggressive in the water.

The animal has an entirely different demeanour on land - so don't mess with a hippo! How's this for a teacher look? Our guide provided us with many interesting facts. The quality of a hippo tusk is considered to be the best in the world. That of a walrus is second, the elephant third, the sperm whale fourth. The rhino doesn't have an ivory tusk- its horn is made out of matted hair. I'm sure that Nancy will shared lots of interesting hippo news with everyone when we get home.

Instead of dreaming about life in Canada tonight our minds may be full of Zulu visions and things that go bump in the water. May your nights be more restful! Thanks for reading!

Durban - A Tale of Survival

Although most of our time in South Africa has been spent off the beaten path, Durban was a city too interesting to miss. The cultural scene here is nationally recognized and includes a reputation for excellent jazz music. Durban is also the busiest port in Africa. I couldn't help but think of the three South Africans (including my roommate) that I got to know pretty well while working on a kibbutz in Israel in 1980. They were all Durbanites and I have strong memories of their thick accents and use of the informal South African vernacular. Unfortunately, there was no chance of looking them up as I couldn't remember any of their surnames!
The third largest urban centre in the country, Durban said to be a place of perpetual sunshine. We were, therefore, in for a bit of shock when we witnessed first-hand just how vulnerable any location can be to the destructive forces of nature. Approaching from the south late one evening, everyone on the Baz Bus (backpackers' bus) sat in amazement as we ambled our way through five hours of heavy thunderstorms. North Americans and Europeans agreed that they had never seen a storm on such a scale in our native lands. I've been reading a book of very whimsical anecdotal stories based on the letters and diaries of four centuries worth of travelers in South Africa. It's called "The Wind Makes Dust". In it the early explorers in South Africa often comment upon the extreme violence of the storms here, and this has been a season to remember!

Particularly eerie was the manner in which the lightning strikes hit. As we were at some altitude, they seemed to emanate from every direction. Bolts flashed vertically across the sky, ear-piercing crackles exploded all around us, and we observed the reflection of flashes of light occurring well below our position. It was truly a sub-tropical mega-storm in stereo! The video that was playing was turned off and we all sat glued to the windows. I have no idea how the bus driver could even see where he was going. We all jumped when there was a bone-jarring bump as we ran over a dead cow that was laying on the highway. Here's a photo of the night sky during the storm, courtesy of Durban Radio.
When we arrived in the city centre a little before midnight the water was knee deep in all low-lying spots. Water streamed along the sidewalks as the Baz Bus made its hostel stops. One poor Australian girl had the misfortune of losing her footing a few steps after retrieving her backpack from the trailer, did a belly flop, and straggled to the hostel door looking like a drown rat. There had been cyclones off the coast of Mozambique and Madagascar in recent weeks so the seas have been high. The night of the storm there also occurred an unusually powerful alignment of the moon and stars, creating abnormally high tides. As a result, a small tsunami hit the KwaZulu-Natal coastline two days later. Touring the beachfront business establishments after we returned from the Drakensberg a week later, the damage was terrible. Entire restaurants were gutted!
One of the features that makes Durban an interesting place to visit is its Asian influence. East Indians account for a significant portion of the population. In fact, Durban is the world's largest Indian community outside of India itself! Many of people were originally brought to the country by the government to work in the sugar cane fields. This cash crop is still an important component of the local economy. The climate and soil must be very favourable -the plants have viewed have often been growing ten feet high!

One indicator of East Indian culture is the use of rickshaws. In Durban they tend to be very elaborate affairs that are used to ferry people mostly around the waterfront area.

Nancy and I both enjoy Indian food a lot so we couldn't miss the opportunity to try Durban's favourite fast food - something called Bunny Chow ("bread-hot"). This consists of a chunk of bread that is hollowed out in the centre and filled with the curry of your choice...but no rabbit if that's what you're thinking. It's very tasty and filling!
Along with the Indian culture comes its architecture. There are many impressive Hindu temples and Islamic mosques, particularly around the old quarter near the city centre. This is the Juma Musjid. We weren't allow in without an adult male Muslim to accompany us.
A highlight of our trip to Durban was a visit to the Victoria Street Market. It's an intriguing blend of Indian shops as well as all things African. There are many women selling dresses on the sidewalks. It's a tradition in the Indian culture for the groom to buy his mother-in-law twenty dresses as part of the wedding package...so they do a pretty brisk business!
That's not to say that all Indian men are infatuated with their new in-laws. They may, at times, seek revenge in the good old-fashioned Indian way in evidence at the spice market! The most disquieting part of the market was our stroll down what I will call, at the risk of sounding judgmental, "Voodoo Alley". It's an entire street devoted to the sale of ingredients used by African witch-doctors. Most rural black South Africans have no real access to medical care and rely upon the potions cooked up by these traditional "healers". The shops in the Victorian market actually provide wholesale supplies of raw materials for the witch-doctors in many African countries. Most of the businesses had a variety of mangled carcasses and bones from a myriad of animals on display. Unfortunately, the proceeds of the poaching of endangered species in South Africa's national parks can also their way into the market.

The remedies of a witch-doctor also require a wide selection of roots, barks, leaves, herbs and other plant materials.Most of the people in the lane ways are busy pounding or grinding up the key ingredients. We had an interesting conversation with the king of this niche. Like most of the other vendors, he works by day and sleeps at night in the market, which is as much his home as his place of commerce. He was very friendly and spoke some English. Mostly he wanted to know what sort of remedies we used for treating the ill in Canada. Nancy and I were at a loss when he asked us what goes into our enemas! As you can see, his torso was heavily scarred, which we instinctively attributed to some sort of pagan ritual, but was apparently the result of a car accident.
Durban has many fine buildings from the English colonial era. In the city centre Francis Farewell Square square has a magnificent neo-Baroque City Hall (pictured below) which now also houses a fine natural history museum. The nearby Post Office is also an impressive edifice. There are also some Tudor-style buildings on the same block.

Directly opposite City Hall one fines a colourful (Art Deco) but sombre cenotaph. We thought that the figure of the dead soldier at the base of the monument was rather striking. The dark and dreary weather plaguing Durban also added to the overall effect.

We were only in Durban for a few days but felt as though we saw a lot in a short period of time. This was mostly due to the efforts of our very cool guide (and manager of our hostel), named Victor. He was insightful, kind, had a big heart, and took us to places we would never have dared to go on our own - such as Voodoo Lane! Born in Kenya, Victor was very proud of the murals that he painted on the walls of the hostel. We didn't want to probe too deeply into his life but he did mention that he had been shot with a gun. Durban has an extremely high crime rate - second only to Johannesburg. Danger seemed to lurk around every corner and he seemed to be able to smell it a mile away. South Africans must lead the world in dogs per (white) household - many families have two or three canines on guard.

We've yet to talk to anyone (of any race) in South Africa that has any respect or faith in the police forces (or judicial system for that matter). Stories of corruption, incompetence, indifference, under staffing, and underfunding seem endless - the police often don't even respond to emergency calls. Both travel guides (books) that we possess advise that contacting the police is likely a waste of time if you've been victimized. Although we read one newspaper article story about vigilantes, the law is tough on people who try to take justice into their own hands. In the Drakensberg we met an elderly couple who were mourning the death of a dear friend. He shot in the leg an armed intruder in his house, and was in turn shot in the stomach before bleeding to death. People are desperate...there's no such thing as welfare or unemployment insurance.

One woman told us about an episode of someone breaking into her house. When she phoned the police they told her that they couldn't come because they had no gas for the only available car. She replied (fictitiously) that her husband had shot the intruder. A short time later the police arrived only to find that the thief had already absconded. Annoyed that they had been summoned for a mere burglary, they said "I thought you said someone had been shot" to which she replied, "I thought you said you had no gas"!

The garbage-can poster below is an ad against the trafficking of human lives, and we're not just talking here about child labour or prostitution. Every month in South Africa there are recorded cases of the ancient practice of muti - the sale of human body parts for use in the wares of African witch-doctors. Voodoo Alley is a place best viewed in the rear view mirror!

On a more positive note, one of the exciting venues in Durban is the Marine World. It opened about five years ago and is partially enclosed in an old barge that was rescued from the sea. It may not look like much from the outside but it's full of fascinating exhibits and creatures within. The sharks of Durban are legendary. There's a shark net set about 50 metres from shore or swimming and surfing would be impossible. The net gets checked every day but got completely washed away by the recent storms. Many of the creatures at Marine World (especially the sharks) are animals that are in captivity because got stuck in and injured by the net.
Marine World is the fifth largest aquarium in the world. We simply ran out of time exploring all of the tanks and revelling in the fabulous range of sea life that exists on good old planet earth.

Finally, travelling around Durban revealed an interesting collection of urban street art and advertising. The AIDS situation sure gets a lot of play, deservedly so!

We finished our visit to Durban by accompanying Victor (at his request) to a Christian Alliance Church service. It was packed with a few thousand people of mixed race many of whom were singing, waving, and providing testimonials - very evangelical. An interesting experience to say the least! We were introduced to many people who seemed genuinely interested in us. We left the city feeling appreciative of these many fine people who live and work there, trying to get on with their lives and make a difference to their society.