The Basoto inhabitants like to call their land the highest country in the world. I don't know about that but it is one of only a few nations that lie entirely above 1000m and is often referred to as "The Kingdom in the Sky". The mountains are to some extent an extension of the Drakensberg. Through the help of the South African government, the Lesotho Highlands Water Project (the most advanced and expensive engineering project to date in Africa) has helped to harness the rains into a watershed that provides most of the water that drains into South Africa. The South Africans pay a considerable sum of money for this water each year.
This is not to say that Lesotho is affluent. On the contrary, the money that Lesotho receives in payment from South Africa accounts for no less than one-quarter of the country's Gross National Product! As one would expect, most of the economy is comprised of subsistence farming. Still, it is known as a rather peaceful place and the Basotho population is proud of its independence. 
Arriving in mid-morning through a minor border post in the north, our first stop was at a small school. It began not so many years ago through the efforts of an Catholic priest. Shortly after arriving he went to the parents in the community and suggested that a school be started. Most of them thought it was a dumb idea that would only divert their children's attention from what they really needed to know in order to survive. A few were interested, however, and agreed to send their kids when he offered to do the teaching for free. One farmer provided his sheep shed which was unused during the day. The kids who attended liked the experience so much that they soon began collecting stones for their own building. In time, a group of Irish volunteers arrived to build a proper facility. The community is now attempting to build a second structure based upon the model provide by the first. 
Our tour group was greeted very warmly by the students and staff. For the most part the students are still pretty shy. Oddly enough, before we were inside more than five minutes Nancy and were selected as the two people to do some instructing! We were each given a different primary grade. I got to teach (and mark) a little bit of math. It was fun! How sad it is to know that so many of these kids will likely die at such a young age. Fifty percent of the women in Lesotho between the ages of 18-24 are HIV positive.
Nancy got to teach some of the older (adolescent) students- I've got some of her fine work on video. Those who teach will no doubt be interested to know that there was a copy of Bloom's Taxonomy on the wall! Barry Bennett doesn't seemed to have arrived yet. Following a snack, some socializing and a game of outdoor volleyball, our group set off to explore some of the nearby terrain, especially a beautiful cave complex above the village.
In some caves there are ancient San rock paintings. These are also found in the Drakensberg and are they main reason why that area was given World Heritage Status. The San (who used to be known as bushmen) are generally thought of as belonging in the Kalahari Desert in Botswana. The truth is that they were the original inhabitants of most of southern Africa. Primitive hunters and gathers, they were driven out first by the black Nguni tribes, next the Boers, then finally the English. There weren't many places to hide except in the desert (where small pockets of San survive today) or high in the mountains.
The painting I have chosen to show is not in the best of shape but I believe to be interesting. The long-legged people it represents were the taller and black Nguni people from further north who eventually drove them out of their mountain stronghold. Most of the forms depicted the animals which were so vital to their survival. 
The father-figure for the people of Lesotho is a man named Moshoeshoe I. A man who believed in non-violence, his motto was "peace is like rain that makes the grass grow". Bit by bit his tribe was pushed further up the mountain until he finally appealed to Queen Victoria for help. She not only saw to it that Lesotho was spared annihilation but provided the people with hats, rubber boots and blankets. Most of these ended up in the hands of the men who herded on the hillsides each day and, as shown below, continue to be the style worn by nearly every adult man! 
Exploring the village for a bit, we noted that the people of Leotho also live in rondavels. The climate can be harsh here so the buildings are painted in a light and dark patch to reflect and absorb light at different times of the day. We also learned that one reason that the homes are round is that the Africans used to believe that evil spirits lived in corners. As was true elsewhere, men and women occupy separate sides of the home and are not allowed to cross over. You'd have a hard time convincing me that this rule is closely followed!
Our tour include a stop at the local shabeen (informal brewery) for a tasting (not bad!) as well as a visit to see the sagoma. This lady was much more friendly towards us than the one we met at the village near Bulungula. She was kind and tried to provide thoughtful answers to our questions. A sagoma's role is somewhere between that of a witchdoctor and naturalist. Most of her ideas seemed pretty logical...however her diagnosis does still begin with the interpretation of small bones that are rolled out of a bag!
We had a very good day that ended with a laugh. Along the way through the village we encountered a very precocious little boy who looked to be no more than two. He raced to stay ahead of us and generally had a lot to say. Destined to be a great chief, no doubt. At the end of it all he announced that he was coming with us and climbed into the van. Talk about a man with a plan! He was adorable.
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